TRAVELS WITH JIM

I remember our first visit to Rome how overwhelmed we felt. So much to see so little time. We said that we did not need to come back. We felt like  “been there, done that”. Check this city off the List! Luckily we have been back more then a few times since that and each time we enjoy the entire city more and more and can hardly wait for our next visit.

Rome has endless architectural wonders, masterpieces of art and sculptors, the 1,000 fountains and piazza’s, 900 plus Cathedrals and churches, etc. This is not to mention the over 5000 Ristorantes, Trattorias, and Osterias  - which is why we really go.

It just takes a little planning to make the most out of your visit to this spectacular city. I would suggest that you create a list of your “Must see”. These would be sites that you have seen in movies or read about and that you have always wanted to see first hand. Try and leave some time to wonder, sit at a street café and take it all in. You may find your own special discovery or hidden treasure if you take the time, and you will fall in love with Rome as we have. Wait until you see this city at night - spectacular! We found it is great fun to hire a car and driver for the day or 1/2 day. So many sites to see and usually so little time - this works great.

The hotel can do this or if you meet a great taxi driver (especially if he can speak English) ask him what it would cost for a tour. It is a stress free and fun way to see THEIR city from a native son. You can get the lay of the land and it will help to make your trip so much more enjoyable and less stressed. The driver can weave in and out through the very heavy traffic (which is an experience on to itself!) and cover more area then you could ever on foot or Metro. Many of the sites you can drive by and, if you have time, go back later and visit. The driver/guide usually can get into the sites by going to the front of the lines and having prepaid tickets. You also can get great restaurant suggestions - we had some great ones from the drivers, some even took us to the restaurant, got the table and told the owner - usually their friends - to take care of us - it has always been great!

If you plan on visiting Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter’s), try to do this in the morning before the crowds. The lines to get in are not too bad and once you are inside, you are on your own.

Check out the 1 BC obelisk in the center of the square before entering, a relic of the “Holy Cross” is within the Gold Cross at the top. The square can hold 300,000 easy! The physical size of St. Peter’s is staggering. It is 212 yards long, 435 feet tall, and it is the largest church in the world. It dates back to AD 319 and is believed to be built over the site were St. Peter was crucified and buried. At the very front of the church under the stain glass, is the wooden chair of St Peter, now encased in bronze by Bernini.

Don’t forget to rub the foot of the 13th Century bronze of St Peter for Good Luck! Look for the statue with the worn out foot and the crowds all rubbing his foot - you can’t miss it. You can take the elevator (you still have 320 steps- it saves about 170 steps) to the top of the Dome for a spectacular view over Rome and Vatican City. If you visit the Vatican Grottoes below with tombs of the many Popes including John Paul II and the tomb of St. Peter, you will have to exit the church - so make it the last thing you want to do before you leave.

If you would like to attend a Papal audience, they are held every Wednesday at around 11:00am (when we were there in February, it started at 12:00 noon), general audiences are held in the Paul VI Hall of Audiences Auditorium - within the Vatican Walls. You can get tickets on Monday and Tuesday of that week, write ahead or as we did in February - at the very last minute on Wednesday, if it is not full. You go to the “bronze doors” located at the right wing of the Colonnade of Piazza San Pietro - facing St Peters - ask any Italian where the “bronze doors” – “dove porta di bronzo?” they will know. Wednesday audience is short - about 1 hour and it is to welcome different groups from all over the world who had written for an “audience” (I think the auditorium holds about 1,500!) - Priest from each country will speak first to introduce his groups and then the Pope will speak in their language! The day we were there, the groups were Knight of Columbus of California, San Francisco Choir Group and a group of “Pilgrims from Beverly Hills” all of whom were wearing red high heel Shoes. Try walking with those on the cobblestone! When we arrived there plenty of seats. We could have chosen an aisle seat but it was further back so we took a middle seat closer to the stage, which is where we thought the Pope would arrive from. Wrong – he came in from the back and walked down the aisle – talking, blessing, and touching everyone within arms reach. So if you get the chance, try to sit next to the main aisle. At the end of the audience, he will leave by the stage exit after he takes pictures with various groups. This is a good time to get up close and take your own pictures. We were also in Rome for Easter one year so I wrote ahead (tickets are a must for this period)  - for the night mass inside St Peters. It was unbelievable and also 4 hours long - 10:00pm - 2:00am.  I wrote to:  Bishop Dino Monduzzi, Prefettura Della Casa Pontificia, Citta del Vaticano 00120, Italy. It was amazing how fast he responded and gave us our choice of ticktets - inside night mass or mass outside Easter morning. Tickets will be delivered to your hotel.  Remember if you are there at Easter time that the Holiday is on Monday (Easter Monday) - everything is closed and locked up tight!

The crowds and lines can be many blocks long and can take hours to get in!  Here is where you can hire a Vatican tour guide. They can go to the front of the lines. They know their way around once inside. It is costly but if you really want to see the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel and you have limited time - this is the best way. Your hotel should be able to help with the arrangements. If not, you can go to the Vatican Museum website and get the information before you arrive. You can also check out www.selectitaly.com for rates also. Make sure they are “legal” guides to the Vatican. There is a new law that authorized guides are the only ones that go to the front of the line. 

Some other sites you might what to check out are as follows:

Usually a must see is the Fontana di Trevi. It took 40 years to build and was completed in 1762 by Nicolo Salvi to create the sculptures of Neptune, God of the Sea, riding a chariot in the shape of a shell, pulled by two seahorses. You will find it hard to believe that this little piazza can hold such a spectacular fountain attached to the Palazzo Poli. Tour buses have to drop people off and they have to walk in - it is so small!

Trevi Fountain is at the end of the Aqua Virgo, an aqueduct constructed in 19 BC. It brings water from the Salone Springs (20 km from Rome) and supplies the fountains in the historic center of Rome with water. Don’t forget to toss your 3 coins into the fountain from over your shoulder; this is to insure you will return to Rome! One time we were there when they were “vacuuming” the coins out of the fountain. It is said that they remove over $3,500 each day! 
 

Colosseum is one of the most recognizable of all Rome’s monuments. It is located in the heart of ancient Rome and within easy walking distance of the Roman Forum, Piazza Venezia, and Vittorio Emanuele Monument. The arena, 1/3 of a mile in circumference and 137 feet high, was built between AD72 - 81AD by Titus. It is here where the Christians were thrown to lions and Gladiators fought to the death until 404AD.

This is the icon of engineering at 55,000 capacities  - but not as big as Circus Maximus, which could entertain 250,000. Over the years, during the Renaissance, construction workers chopped away at the structure when they needed marble for the Basilica di San Pietro and assorted palazzos, destroying a large chunk of the outer wall and creating it’s appearance today. If you don’t have time to go and tour, just driving by or walking around is fun. 

Just a short walk from the Colosseum is the Roman Forum. Take a walk through the historic ruins spanning more then a 1,000 years of history - the likes of Julius Caesar returning from the wars in triumph, Mark Anthony spoke to the crowd after Caesar was killed, the triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus built by the Emperor in 203AD for his victories, and still embedded in the floor of the Basilica Emilia are coins that melted during the fires of Rome in the 5th century - what history!

This once was the center of Roman life. Luckily there are some still remains today because it was used for years (like the Colosseum) for the marble to build other monuments.

Also Queen Margherita who had a pizza named after her when she visited Naples. It is remarkable for its masterful engineering of its immense dome (the dome is wider than that of St Peters) and for its balanced proportions - the diameter of the interior and the height of the dome are the same. Piazza della Rotonda is lined with great looking cafes and restaurants. This is THE meeting spot.  Lots of activities and high-energy - check it out.

Piazza Navona - one of the most beautiful with its fountains and cafes.

For a fun morning don’t miss the market at the wonderful Piazza Campo de’ Fiori, “field of Flowers”, it is located near the Piazza Navona. It is well worth the stop to see the wonderful array of vegetable, fruits, flowers etc. It is fun to watch the bartering and conversions of the Italian and how serious they take the purchasing of produce. I love it. Get a front row seat at one of the café and sit and take it in.  The market is held every morning.

If you are going to Rome you might want to check the sites as seen in the new movie with Tom Hanks, “Angels and Demons”. It takes place in Rome and has some great shots of the city. Here are the locations of four of the main scenes in the movie:
 

If you have time, here are a few more sites: 

Catacombs -Rome has over 480 miles of Catacombs.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (St Mary Major) - This is one of the four major (four papal basilicas) basilica of Rome located on Esquiline Hill. It is the only church in Rome in which mass has been celebrated every day without interruption since the fifth century. Inside is a glass case displaying relics of the manger in Bethlehem, in front of which is the kneeling statue of Pius IX by Iacometti (1880). The Tomb of Bernini is here, to the right near the altar. 

Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano 314AD (St. John’s) -This is the cathedral church of Rome and the Pope is the Bishop of Rome. This is where the Pope has mass. Across the street from the church look to your left and you will see “Santuario Della Scala Santa”  (Palace of the Holy Steps). It is alleged that Christ climbed these 28 marble steps when he was brought before Pontius Pilate. Today pilgrims from all over come here to climb the steps on their knees. This is one of the holiest sites in Christendom. One of the major four basilicas of Rome.

Basilica of St Paul (San Paolo Fuori le Mura - St Paul Outside the Walls) - The Basilica was built over the tomb of St Paul, is the second largest church in Rome. The windows appear to be stained glass but actually are alabaster. One of the major four basilicas of Rome. 

San Pietro in Vincoli (St Peter in Chains Basilica): This is the home of Michelangelo’s magnificent statue of Moses (1515), which is the centerpiece for the tomb of Pope Julius II. Also located here, under glass, are the chains that bound St Peter during his imprisonment in Jerusalem as well as in Rome. 
 
San Clemente:  (12th Century) This is located on Via San Giovanni in Laterano just up from the Colosseum. This is a church upon a church upon a church, upon a church. A remarkably preserved basilica layered like lasagna. At the bottom are ruins dating to the fire set by Nero in the First Century, topped off by an altar showing the Persian god Mithras is the remnants of a church from the 4th Century, catacombs from the 5th and, at street level, the present church, dating from the 12th.

The list could go on and on -

But now let’s get to the real reason we are there - RIGHT!  The FOOD!!

Roman “Cucina” has roots that stretch back over twenty-seven centuries to Romulus and Remus and their first meal of Wolf’s milk

The Roman style artichokes (Carciofi) have to be the best in the world!!  I don’t care what anyone says - THEY ARE NOT THE SAME HERE!!  Don’t miss them - any way you can get them - fried, steam, flattened, sautéed in pasta  - any way!!

Here are few places we liked:

Our hotel (near the Spanish steps) said we could walk – beware when an Italian says “ no too far”! It was a great night and it was a great walk - a great long walk. It is located in a very colorful and interesting part of Rome – old Jewish quarter. Rome’s Ghetto is the oldest continuous community of Jews outside the Middle East. No trip to Rome is complete without a meal in the Jewish Ghetto. This is a great place to explore and wonder the maze of tiny piazzas, cobblestone streets, and ancient ruins. 

Al Pompiere is known for real food at realistic prices. The restaurant is now located on the 2nd floor of the Historic 17th Century Palazzo Cenci Bolognetti Palace. It started on the ground floor as an Osteria in 1922 and later moved up to the 1st floor (in the us this would be the 2nd floor) in 1962. It is made up of 3 small dining rooms with Frescoed ceilings, rustic wooden beams, wooden tables and chairs and not much else. Lots of noise and energy surround you. Remember you are in Italy and this is the Italian way – to enjoy life. 

Pompiere means fireman, and Francesco Monteferris (third generation to own it) explains the connection – “Here in the Ghetto everybody is given a nickname.  My grandfather was known for serving some pretty fiery Pollo alla Diavola – chicken devil’s style – and those who ate it needed a fireman to cool them down.”  The name stuck, and the coat of arms depicts a fireman holding a hose spewing wine.

They are famous for Carciofi alla guidea (Jewish-style deep fried artichokes), delicate Fiori di Zucca (batter-fried zucchini blossoms with mozzarella and anchovies), Frito Misto (Assorted Fired plate of zucchini, peppers, mozzarella etc) or the house specialty of fettuccine con Carciofi or the penne with lemon sauce.

Of coarse we had to try all of them – each was amazing. We also loved the fried veal brains and the perfectly cooked veal chop. We finished with the assorted Dolci – 3 tarts, cherry, ricotta, and wild strawberry. What a great meal – now the walk back!

Ristorante Da Mario Via Della Vite, 55 Rome T: 06 678 3818 Closed on Sunday

This is a very old favorite of the locals. The waiters have all been here a long time also so they have fun and are entertaining and knowledgeable. We had great time here. We looked at the menu, but went with our waiter's suggestions. He was right on with everything he ordered for us. We started with the obligatory plate of prosciutto and melon - I know it looks the same but it certainly does not taste the same. There is nothing like the melon in Italy – so sweet and juicy. He prepared a “Combo” plate of pasta so we could all taste a few – and they were wonderful. Three plates arrived one with bow tie pasta in pesto, then a risotto, followed by a plate of pappardelle with wild boar. This was a great assortment of three different flavors. All were outstanding. I had a great veal chop with wonderful roasted crispy potatoes wedges. He recommends dessert –but we were too full. He insisted so we went for the panna cotta with wild strawberries. We are so glad we did – light and creamy with sweet little wild strawberries – it was a perfect ending. He did a great job. 

This was a little difficult to find but are we glad we did. From the name “Café Mancini” we thought it was going to be very casual – far from it. It was elegant and yet very comfortable. The Woman in charge was very elegant and welcoming. She made you feel very much at home and what ever you wanted she would get for you.  

What a cute place! This is a well established Rome restaurant that has been serving good food with a great atmosphere. When you sit down they bring fried zucchini blossom!  These are great!  A help yourself antipasti bar - eggplant, frittata, whole artichokes stuffed with garlic and spinach and lots more. We started with a fantastic Tuscan bean soup that was great! Next came the outstanding spinach gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce that was fantastic (almost as good as Carol’s). We returned a couple of years later – it was very crowded and the service was off that night, too many people, and not enough staff – but it was still a good place to come. They still bring the stuffed zucchini flower. A Crudo “raw” plate that night was a plate of sliced avocadoes and arugula in the center, surrounded with thin slices of swordfish, and ahi (tuna) drizzled with olive oil - it was excellent. The roasted veal with artichokes and potatoes was another hit the night. The sweetbreads were my favorite. The veal shank – this was huge – the largest I have ever seen – it had to be 12” tall. It was served standing up in the middle of the plate with all meat pulled off the bone and piled at the bottom of the bone - it was outstanding. Try it and you will love it. Restaurant 34 is within walking distance from the Spanish Steps. When our daughter, Jeanette went to Europe with her girlfriends, she never asked for names of restaurants. But when she was in Rome, I recommended this restaurant to try  - she loved it as did her friends - even though her parents recommended it!

Well this is the place to have the famous roman dish of “Carciofi Alla Giudia” – fried Jewish artichoke, which they have been serving since 1923. They are located in the Jewish section of Rome, which is a great area to visit. But the main reason you come here is for the Carciofi Alla Guidia - Jewish Artichoke. If you do not have it here you are missing out! From the front you may think this is very small but, as the waiter takes you to your dining room - you walk through a maze of other rooms  – dining rooms everywhere - this is actually very large. Our waiter and the entire staff was playful and entertaining.

Il Brillo Parlante
Enoteca Ristorante
Via Della Fontanella 12
Roma
Tel: 063243334
www.ilbrilloparlante.com

It looked so small when you entered off the street. But then you go downstairs, the place goes on forever. It is always a shock to see what appears to me a small restaurant and then it goes up many floors or in this case downstairs and is very large! One of their specialties was pizza – which all looked good as they passed our table. They start you off with a complimentary margherita piazza and focaccia toast with rosemary and olive oil – fantastic way to start. We started with the mozzarella and tomatoes - the presentation was the whole ball of mozzarella sliced and each slice was stuffed with tomatoes and basil like a fan – it was not only beautiful but also delicious.

We next ordered the best-assorted meat plate - speck, lardo, beef cheeks, coppa, and salami – delicious. We followed with a great salad with feta, tomatoes, ricotta, and pear. The spaghetti bocconcini with zucchini flowers in white sauce was another hit that we shared, as was the fettuccine, which was as light as a feather with zucchini, pancetta, and ricotta of mozzarella. We followed with a great chicken “under the brick”. The lamb chops we had were cooked perfectly. We had a wonderful dessert of strawberries and crema.
 
I would certainly go back.  The couple we were traveling with did go back and like it even better. 

Il Comparone Ristorante
Piazza in Piscinula 47
Roma    
Tel: 06 5816249
www.comparone.it

As you enter there is a large bowl of fresh Artichokes with lemons, as the centerpiece. This is the place where the artichoke is celebrated. One of the oldest restaurants (1856) located in the Jewish ghetto, it has been owned by the Mazzarella and Boni Families since 1963. The decor is formal yet the staff makes it very welcoming. Located in the heart of the old Jewish ghetto near the Cenci Palace. This is also THE place to have the “not to be missed” Fried Jewish Artichokes, "Carciofi Alla Giudia”. This is a baby tender fried artichoke that has been flattened and fried whole to look like a large flower. It is crisp and tender – you eat the whole thing. You will not be able to duplicate at home – I have tried many times. Our artichokes are not the same. Make sure you try them before you leave Rome. Actually anything fried here (or in Italy) is spectacular – thin crispy coating on the outside and juicy inside – simply perfection. Only the Italians know how to fry like this. Also try “Fritto Scelto all’Italiana” strips of young artichokes with variety meat or the “Fritto Misto Vegetariano” artichokes with “Suppli” (a rice croquette with melted cheese inside), some chunks of mozzarella and the stuffed squash blossom. They do know how to fry. Even after picking them up with your fingers there is not trace of grease! 

Member of the “Piatta Del Buon Ricordo” Club Special for the Commutative Plate:  “Abbacchio alla Cacciatore (lamb stewed hunter style with anchovies, garlic vinegar, and olive oil). This is Mario Batali’s favorite place. During the 1800’s this was a wine shop selling to the butchers working in the slaughterer houses. In 1887 the ancestors of the present owners began serving food – hence 1887! It has been in the same family for 5 generations. Elio and Francesco Mariani specialize in dishes using the “Quinto Quarto” or fifth quarter – offal, tripe, intestines, and oxtail – originally discarded by the now closed slaughterhouse across the street. Checchino is a shrine to cooking “Quinto quarto”. If you want to dine authentically, this is the place to go.

You get the picture – this is not a place for vegetarians! With all that said – we had a great lunch and some thought the best on this trip. The location is questionable – but you step inside to its elegant white table clothed tables and waiters in dark suits and all is forgotten. The staff could not have been more helpful – which we needed, even with the English translated menu! I had the best lardo and a plate of crostini topped with pig’s check!

This is located on a very picturesque Piazza Santa Maria, a very lively square with something always going on. This is a real “local” neighborhood spot, a Roman classic located on a classic Roman square. If you can sit outside, that is the best. I had heard that it was going down in quality - but Gennero at the Hotel insisted it was good. Boy was he right! This is a very homey and fun place to go. We have been a couple of times. On a previous trip it was our last night in Rome. They have a strolling accordion player and everyone singing along “Arrivederci Roma”, “Three Coins in the Fountain” . We had a great night – a perfect way to end a trip. Don’t miss the Jewish artichoke – flatten and fried.  Try the pollo con pepperoni, or the simple roasted chicken, which is excellent. We also loved the chicken diavola (under the brick) all juicy and crispy skin! I would also recommend the bruschetta, and, if in season, zucchini blossoms stuffed with cheese - (these were the best!!). They have a great veal parmigiano also. The large assorted antipasti is great - you would think I would be tired of antipasti by now - but each time there is always something different and each place prepares things differently - I love it!

 

Jim & Carol Barraco

If you have any questions, travel tips or you would like to share an experience or great restaurant while traveling, please write me at travelswithjim@comcast.net.